Aciolor at Chabari — Review by Jack's Dining Room
San Sebastian, Spain — Spanish, Open-Fire Grilling
This Michelin-starred restaurant in San Sebastian delivers on its legendary reputation, particularly with what the reviewer calls the best steak in the world. While some dishes were artistic misses, the exceptional quality of ingredients, innovative open-fire cooking technique, and welcoming atmosphere make it absolutely worth the premium price and effort to visit.
What was great: The Galician beef steak which they declared the best steak ever had, the Spanish seabream, Palamos prawns, grilled anchovies, raw chorizo, pea broth, homey and inviting atmosphere, attentive service with unlimited bread refills, chef's passion and dedication to every dish
What could improve: Mediterranean cuttlefish sauce, mushrooms and peas with truffle which tasted like soggy mushroom in broth, one or two dishes overall weren't favorites
The Dishes
The tasting menu at 280 euros per person showcased Chef Victor's mastery of fire-based cooking. The meal began with an impressive green pea broth that captured pure pea flavor without overwhelming the palate. Raw chorizo from Hosolito, a sixth-generation family-run farm producing the highest quality pork in the world, arrived between crackers and proved phenomenal with the cracker providing textural contrast. Locally caught anchovies cured in-house with tomato jam offered intense umami, though admittedly divisive.
The standout proteins dominated the experience. Spanish Palamos prawns, the most expensive in the world at forty dollars each, delivered extraordinary sweetness and tenderness when eaten using the traditional method of tilting the head to access the concentrated juices. The grilled sea urchin cooked with its own yolk provided perfect creaminess and optimal salt balance served in its own shell. A grilled anchovy course with arugula sauce proved incredibly tender and changed perspectives on anchovy perception entirely.
The Spanish seabream with gelatin and olive oil emerged as one of the finest white fish dishes imaginable, featuring a slight rare quality that maintained juiciness and meatiness without excessive fishiness. Even the eyeball proved palatable with its gelatin texture. The main event, a ten-year-old Galician beef, absolutely delivered on its world-renowned reputation with extraordinary marbling that cut like butter, dry-aged depth, and beef richness that five of six diners agreed was the best steak they had ever tasted.
Supporting courses included Mediterranean cuttlefish with world's most expensive peas that were hand-picked and required consumption the same day, though the sauce disappointed. Mushrooms and peas with French truffle arrived as an artistic vision that fell flat, tasting like soggy mushroom in broth. A Sacred River wine from the Spain-Portugal border region proved flavorful without harshness. Dessert featured housemade ice cream with beetroot juice creating beautiful color contrast and complementary sweetness balance, plus a foamy chocolate creation that divided opinions.
The Experience
Unlike typical Michelin-starred fine dining, Aciolor at Chabari deliberately cultivates a homey, inviting atmosphere designed to feel like eating at a friend's house. The single seating per day policy creates intimacy and allows Chef Victor's personal involvement in every dish. Service proved attentive without pretension, with a staff member consistently refilling bread every ten minutes throughout the meal. Guests pour their own water, enhancing the casual yet refined vibe. The restaurant only operates when Chef Victor is personally present, demonstrating his relentless dedication to quality control. Conversations with the chef revealed genuine passion disconnected from accolades and rankings.
Value and Pricing
The final bill of 1,889 euros for six people came in significantly lower than anticipated given the ingredient costs. Individual courses featured astronomical ingredient pricing: peas cost over two hundred dollars per pound, Palamos prawns at forty dollars each, and access to rare dairy cow beef sourced exclusively for the restaurant. The 280-euro tasting menu per person ultimately justified its cost through ingredient quality and Chef Victor's innovative open-fire technique using specific woods burned at precise temperatures to shape each ingredient's flavor profile.
Notable Moments
I have never seen goat butter at a restaurant in my entire life.
I can officially say this is the best steak I've ever had in my entire life.
Five out of six people at the table agree that this is the best steak they've ever had in their life. That's how you know it's truly incredible quality.
I would buy a flight back to Spain just to experience this meal and have this steak again.
The Verdict
Aciolor at Chabari absolutely lives up to its ranking as the world's second-best restaurant, primarily through its revelation of the best steak available anywhere and exceptional fish preparations. While one or two artistic plates missed the mark, the overwhelming quality of execution, ingredient sourcing, and the genuine passion of Chef Victor transform those minor disappointments into forgettable moments overshadowed by the exceptional highs. This restaurant represents one of the best overall dining experiences available, worth traveling internationally to experience despite the premium pricing. Best suited for adventurous diners willing to embrace unconventional ingredients like raw pork and offal while appreciating the philosophical approach to open-fire cooking that has redefined Spanish cuisine.