Baba — Review by KSIĄŻULO
Wroclaw, Poland — Modern Polish
A visit to Baba, the only Michelin-starred restaurant run by a female chef in Poland (Beata Sniechowska, Master Chef winner), located in Wroclaw. Unlike typical tasting menus, Baba offers an a la carte menu in a casual bistro atmosphere where diners can wear casual clothing. The reviewer enjoyed creative modern Polish cuisine with seasonal ingredients but found some dishes overly acidic.
What was great: Creative modern Polish cuisine with seasonal ingredients, relaxed atmosphere without pretension, high-quality dishes like croquettes with cod, herring with cream and herbs, pate with chicken liver, summer salad with trout, and beef tartare with tomato water. Excellent pairings and thoughtful presentation.
What could improve: Some dishes were overly acidic/sour for the reviewer's taste (summer salad, tartare with tomato water). Pate was very intense in flavor. Lengthy wait times between courses typical of Michelin restaurants.
The Dishes
The meal began with Spanish-style croquettes filled with cod and bechamel, served with leek aioli and tartare sauce, finished with edible flowers. These crispy, fluffy croquettes with excellent filling were immediately praised as standout items. Next came a refreshing summer compote made from strawberries, rhubarb, and black currants in a style reminiscent of grandmother's home cooking.
The herring course featured North German herring delicately smoked and served on confitted potato with a cream and herb cloud and marinated kohlrabi in celeriac. This elevated preparation of a dish many typically dislike at holiday celebrations was described as outstanding, completely changing perceptions of herring.
A vibrant summer salad showcased various fruits including strawberries, gooseberries, figs, citrus fruits, and trout from the Dniester region, served with an almond-based sauce and ogurki (lemon-cucumber) beverage. While refreshing and perfect for hot weather, the reviewer found it slightly too acidic and preferred this style less.
Beef tartare represented a bold reinvention with tomato in two forms - solid and liquid - accompanied by horseradish, anchovy, and tomato water with olive oil and lovage. Though the presentation was innovative and the ingredients quality was exceptional, the sourness from the tomato and the unconventional serving method made the reviewer prefer a more classic tartare preparation.
The poultry liver pate came on grilled brioche from Plon bakery with fruit accompaniments. Incredibly creamy and intense, almost melting like butter, this dish required the fruit element to balance its powerful flavor. One reviewer called it their favorite appetizer of the day, though it was acknowledged as very challenging if eaten alone.
The Experience
Baba distinguishes itself as a casual Michelin establishment where diners need not dress formally - appearing in casual wear is completely acceptable. The restaurant features both indoor and outdoor seating with a charming, relaxed atmosphere that feels more like a neighborhood bistro than a formal fine dining establishment. Service was professional and informative, with the chef explaining each dish's inspiration and ingredients in detail, demonstrating genuine passion for the cuisine and local sourcing.
The pacing of courses was notable - after about an hour, only three dishes had been served, leading to a request for slightly faster service. The restaurant accommodates this by offering to serve two courses at a time if desired.
Value and Pricing
The full menu tasting experience cost approximately 1,150 Polish zloty for two people without oysters or alcohol. Individual items ranged from 17 zloty for simple items to 68 zloty for the beef tartare. The compote cost 34 zloty. While prices reflect Michelin-star status, they are comparable to typical tasting menu experiences at other starred establishments. The reservation required a 200 zloty advance payment to secure the table, which could be credited toward the bill.
Notable Moments
One of the reviewers mentioned the channel's low subscription rate, humorously interjecting that 42.4 percent of viewers still had not subscribed to the channel.
When discussing the compote, the reviewer stated: "Such a compote, if it came in a zero-sugar version, I would only be able to drink that. Delicious but it flows."
About the herring dish: "This is exactly what I expect from this type of restaurant. If theoretically I don't like something and order it and it's not cheap, then I have to like it. And here it's very good."
Regarding the pate: "The texture of this pate is so incredibly creamy. Like butter. Unbelievable."
The Verdict
Baba represents a refreshing approach to Michelin dining, maintaining sophistication while rejecting pretension. Chef Beata Sniechowska's creative modern Polish cuisine, built on seasonal ingredients and local partnerships with suppliers since 2019, proves worthy of its star. The restaurant excels at transforming dishes diners might normally dislike - herring, liver pate, beef tartare - into exciting culinary experiences through superior ingredients and innovative preparation.
However, the restaurant's strong emphasis on acidity and summer freshness may not appeal to all palates, and some might prefer more traditional flavor profiles. The Michelin tasting experience maintains the long pacing typical of starred restaurants, though the casual atmosphere and willingness to adjust service speed are welcome features.
Baba is best suited for adventurous diners who appreciate modern Polish cuisine, seasonal cooking, and don't require formal dress codes or stuffy atmospheres. It successfully bridges fine dining excellence with approachable, unpretentious hospitality.