Multiple establishments (Kuba Sarai restaurant, Shabandar Cafe, Street stall with turnips/chickpeas, Borek shop, Hajis Bal juice shop, Iraqi Gus/Shawarma restaurant) — Review by Mark Wiens

The Dishes

Mark Wiens embarks on an extraordinary culinary journey through Baghdad, sampling some of Iraq's most iconic dishes, each with deep historical roots. The adventure begins at the legendary Kuba Sarai restaurant, operating since 1933, where Kuba Sarai takes center stage-perfectly spherical bulgur wheat dumplings generously stuffed with minced lamb and onions, bobbing in a rich tomato broth. The dish reveals layers of complexity: the gummy, hearty texture of the bulgur contrasts beautifully with tender lamb, subtle hints of allspice and black pepper, and surprising pops of sweetness from hidden raisins. When submerged in the tangy tomato broth and paired with fresh pickles and fluffy samoon bread, it transforms into a soothing, warming masterpiece.

At a riverside street stall, boiled turnips emerge as a winter delicacy-tender vegetables cooked until they practically melt, then finished with date syrup and salt for an addictive sweet-savory balance. The chickpeas served alongside are equally impressive: massive, creamy legumes in a starchy broth elevated by a squeeze of seasonal lemon-orange and a mysterious black pepper spice blend that tingles on the palate.

Borek, the paper-thin pastry showcased at a century-old family shop, demonstrates generational craftsmanship. Slapped to delicate translucence and deep-fried until puffy and golden, it's filled with either minced meat and parsley or a modern cheese variation. The original version wins-flaky layers give way to aromatic herbs and savory meat, while the crispy exterior shatters with each bite.

At Hajis Bal juice shop-whose legendary proprietor earned the protective nickname "Mr. Trash" at birth-raisin juice captivates with its fermented sweetness. This isn't ordinary grape juice; it's thick, intensely flavored, and refreshingly cold, with the essence of raisins seemingly liquefied into pure indulgence.

The crescendo arrives with Iraqi Gus (shawarma), an architectural marvel of beef crowned with a cascading foot of lamb fat that keeps the meat perpetually succulent. Crispy exterior, juicy interior, and aromatic Iraqi spices combine with fluffy samoon bread and a tangy-sweet barbecue sauce. The lamb fat crisps from the top of the spit are equally star-worthy-bursting simultaneously with crispness and liquid richness.

The Experience

The dining experience transcends mere food consumption; it's an immersion into Baghdad's living culture. Kuba Sarai operates within a bustling market surrounded by school supplies and books, creating an authentically cramped yet convivial atmosphere despite background sawing sounds. The legendary Shabandar Cafe, operating as a "living museum," envelops visitors in aromatic shisha smoke, historical antiques, and the gentle hum of tea service-a place where dignitaries and ordinary citizens alike have gathered for decades. The street stall offers raw spontaneity, with steam rising from turnip pots and the aroma perfuming entire street corners. The Borek shop radiates generational warmth as an 11-year-old son learns the craft from his father, embodying heritage preservation in real-time.

Iraqi Gus presents theatrical chaos-non-stop knife sharpening, constant spit rotation, and visible heat waves emanating from open flames. The energy is kinetic; the proprietor never stops moving, slicing, and preparing. Seating options range from tight stools mere feet from the towering meat column to crowded indoor dining, all thrumming with activity. Throughout Baghdad's book-lined streets, the atmosphere emphasizes hospitality, welcoming strangers into spaces where locals feel entirely at home.

Value & Pricing

While specific prices aren't detailed in the transcript, the value proposition is extraordinarily compelling. Street food staples like boiled turnips, chickpeas, and Borek are economical yet generously portioned and prepared with meticulous care. The Gus sandwich, despite its impressive size and complex preparation involving hours of meat rotation, appears to be affordable fast food. Even legendary establishments like Kuba Sarai and Shabandar Cafe, operating for generations and serving presidents and common people alike, remain accessible to everyday diners. This is cuisine that prioritizes quality and tradition over premium pricing-authentic, nourishing food available to all.

Notable Moments

"This is just one of the many amazing Iraqi foods we're trying today in this ultimate food tour in Baghdad. But unfortunately, you've heard about Baghdad for all the wrong reasons. In this video, I want to show you a different side."

This powerful opening statement encapsulates Wiens's mission to present Baghdad's vibrant, welcoming reality rather than its conflict-dominated narrative.

When discussing Borek heritage, the owner articulates:

"This is the only way that the experience will be transferred from one generation to another."

This poignant observation underscores how Iraqi cuisine survives through familial transmission of skills and secrets.

The Hajis Bal juice shop story proves equally memorable-a child given a protective "trash" nickname at birth to ward off envy, who transformed the name into legendary status. The concept that

"the reader doesn't steal and the thief doesn't read"

reveals Baghdad's book-culture identity and trust-based commerce ethic.

Witnessing the Gus master's relentless energy-perpetually sharpening knives, spinning meat, slicing without pause-becomes a meditation on dedication and craftsmanship. Wiens observes:

"He has not stopped working. He has something to do at all moments."

The Verdict

This culinary exploration of Baghdad stands as essential viewing for anyone seeking authentic Middle Eastern cuisine and cultural understanding. These establishments-Kuba Sarai, Shabandar Cafe, the riverside stall, the century-old Borek shop, Hajis