Baghdadi Restaurant — Review by Mark Wiens
Baghdad, Iraq — Iraqi
Mark Wiens visits Baghdadi Restaurant in Baghdad to experience masgouf, Iraq's national dish of grilled freshwater fish. Using an ancient Sumerian technique, the chefs butterfly fresh carp from their aquarium, season it simply with salt, and roast it vertically over live fire for about an hour before giving it a final char on hot coals and topping it with a glowing coal to render the belly fat. The result is an extraordinarily juicy and crispy fish that Mark describes as potentially the best grilled freshwater fish on earth.
What was great: The incredibly juicy and crispy grilled fish, the ancient Sumerian cooking technique using live fire, the char from the glowing coal on the fish belly, the perfect balance of crispy skin and moist interior, the traditional preparation method with fresh carp from their aquarium
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The star of the show is masgouf, Iraq's national grilled fish dish. Fresh carp is selected from the restaurant's live aquarium, butterfly cut and cleaned with salt seasoned directly into the cavity. The fish are then placed on vertical spits over live fire for approximately one hour of roasting. What makes this preparation truly special is the final step: once the fish is nearly cooked, it's moved to a bed of coals where the skin gets a direct char. The coolest part comes when a glowing hot coal is placed directly on the fatty belly, causing the fat to melt and hiss into a pool of pure juiciness. The resulting dish is remarkably crispy on the outside while remaining incredibly moist and succulent inside, with the fish essentially braising in its own rendered fat and juices.
The Experience
The experience begins in the kitchen itself, where diners can witness the entire cooking process firsthand. The live fire cooking setup showcases the ancient Sumerian grilling technique that has been used for thousands of years. There's an undeniable theater to watching the chefs work with the vertical spits and carefully manage the live coals. The kitchen is the main attraction, allowing visitors to see how the magic happens before sitting down to eat.
Value & Pricing
While specific prices are not mentioned in the transcript, the experience of eating what appears to be Iraq's finest preparation of this national dish suggests excellent value for such an expertly prepared meal.
Notable Moments
It's like a puddle of juices of fish juice and oil.
This is probably the best grilled freshwater fish on earth.
Mark expresses genuine amazement at how juicy the fish remains after an hour of roasting, admitting he initially thought the long cooking time would result in dry, withered fish. The visual of the glowing coal melting the belly fat and the sound of it hissing clearly captivates him.
The Verdict
Baghdadi Restaurant is an absolute must-visit for anyone interested in authentic Iraqi cuisine and traditional cooking methods. This restaurant is best for those seeking to experience culinary history firsthand and taste what might genuinely be the world's best preparation of grilled freshwater fish. The combination of ancient technique, fresh ingredients, and skilled execution makes this a truly memorable dining experience.