Cafe Bulu at Mesm — Review by Bon Appetit
New York, United States — French Contemporary
Chef Daniel Bulu showcases the creation of the Chopster, Cafe Bulu at Mesm's signature dish that combines roasted Pennsylvania chicken stuffed with lobster head and topped with sauce American. The dish represents a modern interpretation of a traditional Leon recipe, featuring impeccable technique in brining, trussing, poaching, and sauce preparation. This theatrical, multi-component dish is presented tableside and offers a magical culinary experience that blends delicate chicken and lobster flavors in perfect harmony.
What was great: The iconic Chopster dish combining roasted chicken stuffed with lobster, the complexity and finesse of the sauce American with cognac, the delicate balance of flavors, the theatrical presentation, and the unique concept that is one of a kind in America
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The Chopster is the undisputed star of Cafe Bulu at Mesm, a dish that Chef Daniel Bulu describes as a love affair between chicken and lobster. The dish begins with a beautiful free-range chicken from Pennsylvania that is carefully brined for 20 minutes and dried overnight. The chicken is then seasoned with herbs, garlic, and stuffed with the head of a lobster that has been broken down. The lobster is gently poached separately and finished with the chicken in the final stages of cooking. The sauce American is the true hero of the dish, fortified with chicken and lobster stock, roasted wing bones, cognac for depth, tomato paste for intensity, and finished with cream for smoothness. The result is a concentrated, complex sauce with notes of acidity and tannin that brings the chicken and lobster together in perfect harmony.
The Experience
The experience of dining at Cafe Bulu at Mesm is theatrical and memorable. The Chopster is presented to diners before being carved tableside, creating a dramatic moment. The restaurant features a main dining room, a salon, and private rooms, allowing for elegant presentations. Chef Roman Pomeier, the executive chef, worked alongside Chef Bulu on this dish, bringing their shared heritage from Leon to this New York kitchen. The presentation includes a brass lobster found on the flea market and fresh thyme, adding visual elegance to the plate.
Value & Pricing
The pricing tier is not explicitly mentioned in the video, but given the Michelin star status and the labor-intensive nature of the Chopster with its multiple components, tableside preparation, and premium ingredients like lobster and Pennsylvania chicken, this is clearly a high-end fine dining establishment in the upper price range.
Notable Moments
This is one of a kind dish in America. Every bite you have a little bit of lobster, you have a little bit of chicken, and you dip it into the sauce. It's really magical.
I may have an idea that I will do a chicken farm by the sea in Maine and the chicken can come and have conversation with the lobsters and certainly start to create a relationship.
Chef Bulu's passion and creativity shine through as he discusses the technique of trussing, explaining that customers paying high prices deserve properly executed chicken that remains juicy and tender. The pressing of the lobster body in a duck press to extract umami and boost the sauce demonstrates the level of precision and thoughtfulness in every element.
The Verdict
The Chopster at Cafe Bulu at Mesm is described as one of a kind in America, a must-try for adventurous diners seeking innovative fine dining. This restaurant is best for special occasions and those who appreciate theatrical tableside service, impeccable technique, and dishes that push culinary boundaries. Chef Bulu's whimsical imagination combined with serious classical training makes this an unforgettable dining destination in New York City.