Cinder — Review by Eating With Tod
London, United Kingdom — Contemporary Fire-Cooked
Cinder is a neighborhood restaurant in London facing potential closure despite serving exceptional fire-cooked dishes at reasonable prices (40 pounds). Chef Jake demonstrates obsessive attention to quality, sourcing premium produce and even maintaining his own rooftop herb garden. Every dish from grilled squid to cedar-planked salmon showcases his culinary skill and passion.
What was great: Exceptional quality produce including grilled squid with cafe de parry butter, giant prawns cooked over fire, T-bone steak with outstanding gravy and bone marrow, slow-cooked beef ribs that were spoon tender, and salmon cooked over cedar planks that was described as the best salmon dish ever had at a restaurant. Chef Jake's commitment to quality is evident through his own rooftop herb garden.
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The menu at Cinder is built around fire-cooking, and every dish demonstrates chef Jake's commitment to quality ingredients and technique. The grilled squid arrives with cafe de parry butter and is paired with enormous prawns that resemble baby lobsters, cooked over flames and finished with coconut and chili oil. The preparation is theatrical and delicious, with the reviewer demonstrating how to properly enjoy the prawns by popping off the head and sucking out the brains before savoring the meaty flesh.
The T-bone steak is a showstopper presentation with a massive bone marrow running down the middle, finished over the flames and covered in beef shoe. While the steak itself has lovely flavor, the standout element is the gravy, which the reviewer describes as so good they would drink it from a pint glass.
Slow-cooked beef ribs with chimichurri are another stellar offering, with meat so tender it literally melts on the tongue. However, the salmon cooked over cedar planks emerges as the true highlight, prompting the reviewer to seek out chef Jake immediately after tasting it. This dish is proclaimed as hands down the best salmon ever experienced at a restaurant.
The Experience
Upon arrival, the restaurant is completely empty, which is heartbreaking given the quality of food being produced. The atmosphere appears intimate and focused on the food itself, with fire-cooking as a central element that creates visual theater. Chef Jake's personal dedication to the business shines through, with his rooftop herb garden demonstrating an obsessive approach to sourcing quality produce rather than relying on wholesalers.
Value and Pricing
The menu is offered at 40 pounds, which represents excellent value for the quality and care evident in each dish. For fire-cooked proteins of this caliber with premium ingredients, the pricing is extremely reasonable, especially for a London restaurant.
Notable Moments
I'd drink it from a pint glass
That is hands down the best salmon dish I've ever had at a restaurant. It's absolutely incredible.
The reviewer's passionate response to the cedar-planked salmon, including seeking out chef Jake immediately after tasting it, underscores just how impactful this dish is.
The Verdict
Cinder is an independent restaurant in serious danger of closing despite being exceptional. Chef Jake's personal investment in quality, from his rooftop herb garden to his meticulous fire-cooking technique, produces standout dishes that rival much more expensive establishments. This is a restaurant worth supporting and visiting, particularly for anyone who appreciates fine dining at accessible prices and chefs who genuinely care about their craft.