Cole — Review by Sorted Food
London, United Kingdom — Mexican fusion with British and Scottish produce
Chef Santiago Lustra from the Michelin-starred Cole restaurant in London demonstrates three levels of Mexican cuisine, from comfort food to fine dining. The video showcases his innovative approach to Mexican cooking using premium British ingredients like rhubarb, seabuckthorn berries, and Scottish langoustines, creating dishes that are both technically impressive and bursting with unique flavors.
What was great: Creative fusion of Mexican cuisine with British and Scottish produce, innovative techniques, unique flavors like the rhubarb and seabuckthorn salsa, perfectly executed langoustine tacos, attention to detail in ingredient selection and preparation
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The cooking experience spans three levels of complexity. At the foundation level, Santiago creates a signature drunk salsa (salsa borracha) using roasted rattlesnake and arbor chilies combined with charred rhubarb, hemp seeds, and a touch of mezcal. The sauce balances earthy, spicy, smoky, nutty, creamy, and sour notes from the rhubarb, creating a flavor profile that is completely unique. This salsa is paired with fresh blue corn masa quesadillas filled with a mixture of fresh and aged mozzarella cheese, representing classic Mexican comfort food. The quesadillas are cooked to perfection with slightly puffed masa and melted cheese oozing from the edges, finished with edible flowers and the exceptional salsa.
At the highest level, Santiago's signature langoustine tacos feature roasted langoustines injected with seabuckthorn berry juice, served on sourdough tortillas with sauerkraut, charred langoustine heads that act as citrus, seaweed lanes, and a seabuckthorn reduction. The langoustines are kept tender and sweet through careful searing and finishing in cream, while the seabuckthorn berries provide a tamarind-like acidity that replaces traditional lime.
The Experience
The video captures an intimate cooking masterclass where Santiago patiently explains traditional Mexican techniques while adapting them to British ingredients. The atmosphere is educational yet celebratory, with genuine enthusiasm from the participants as they witness each stage of preparation. Santiago's passion for ingredient quality and his understanding of how to balance flavors and textures is evident throughout. The experience emphasizes that even at the highest levels of fine dining, Mexican food remains handheld and approachable, maintaining its essential character.
Value and Pricing
While specific pricing is not mentioned in the transcript, the use of premium ingredients like fresh langoustines, high-quality cheeses, and foraged British elements suggests this is a high-end establishment. The Michelin star designation indicates the restaurant operates in the fine dining price bracket.
Notable Moments
I've never quite understood Mexican food in the UK cuz I don't think we've ever had... Well, there's a lot of average Mexican food.
I'm almost whimpering over here just watching it.
I think that's the best Mexican food I've eaten. And it makes me proud to be British.
The Verdict
Cole represents a refreshing and innovative approach to Mexican cuisine in the UK. Santiago Lustra has masterfully elevated Mexican cooking by respecting traditional techniques while celebrating the finest British and Scottish produce available. This restaurant is perfect for diners seeking authentic Mexican flavors with a creative twist, those interested in understanding how regional ingredients can be reimagined, and anyone looking for an exceptional fine dining experience that doesn't sacrifice the joyful, handheld nature of Mexican food. The combination of technical expertise, ingredient sourcing, and culinary creativity makes Cole a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.