Dhamaka — Review by Eater
New York, United States — Indian
Chef Gregory Gourdet visits Dhamaka in NYC to experience their special biryani made with coconut milk instead of dairy. He praises the dish's complex layering of 16 different ingredients, aromatic spices, and comforting yet sophisticated flavor profile, calling it some of the best rice he's had in New York City.
What was great: The biryani with its 16 layers of flavors, saffron cream made with coconut milk, aromatic spices, fried onions, and the way different elements remain distinct rather than homogeneous. The combination of rice and chicken that is both comforting and perfumed.
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The star of this visit is Dhamaka's signature biryani, a special preparation that replaces traditional dairy with coconut milk. This thoughtfully crafted dish features saffron cream infused with coconut milk, chili, brown onion, cilantro, and ginger, all meticulously layered 16 different times. The biryani is served with tender chunks of chicken, creating a dish that celebrates the beauty of distinct, layered flavors rather than blending everything into a homogeneous mixture. The fried onions add textural contrast, while the saffron colors and perfumes individual grains of rice. Gourdet notes the potential of ordering this same preparation with goat meat, suggesting it would be equally exceptional.
The Experience
This appears to be a feature visit with the restaurant's team actively engaging with the chef, explaining their technique and ingredient choices. The collaborative atmosphere allows for genuine appreciation of the cooking craft and attention to detail that goes into each component of the biryani.
Value & Pricing
No specific pricing information is mentioned in the transcript.
Notable Moments
This is some of the best rice I've had in New York City, hands down.
Gourdet's enthusiasm for the dish is palpable, and he repeatedly expresses his love for quality biryani, noting that while rice is prevalent in Haitian cuisine, biryani ranks among the world's best rice dishes.
The Verdict
Dhamaka's biryani represents an elevated take on this classic Indian dish, with the coconut milk substitution adding a subtle richness while maintaining the essential character of the dish. Chef Gourdet's endorsement as one of the best rice dishes he's experienced in New York City speaks volumes about the quality and execution. This restaurant is best for those seeking authentic, thoughtfully prepared Indian cuisine with innovative twists on traditional recipes.