Forsythia — Review by Eater
New York, United States — Modern Roman
Forsythia is a modern Roman trattoria that Sam Braverman visits regularly and considers his go-to restaurant. The restaurant excels at handmade pasta with delicate, thin dough and luxurious sauces, particularly standout dishes like duck annuli and rigatoni amatriciana that showcase intentional cooking without pretension.
What was great: The handmade pasta, perfectly al dente texture, luxurious sauces, duck annuli, amatricana, attention to detail in pasta preparation and cooking techniques
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Forsythia specializes in modern Roman cuisine with a focus on handmade pasta. The duck annuli is a standout dish featuring delicate, thin pasta filled with short rib that has been brazed for three days. The sauce is luxurious and perfectly balanced, coating the pasta without overwhelming it. The rigatoni amatriciana is equally impressive, described as a perfect red sauce pasta with guanciale, the pork jowl rendered until crispy and savory. The amana pasta, another house specialty, demonstrates the kitchen's mastery of thin, delicate dough work and perfectly al dente texture with just enough chew.
The Experience
The restaurant has been open for five and a half years and operates as a modern Roman trattoria. The chef and kitchen team are transparent about their techniques and processes, personally demonstrating how they prepare their signature dishes. Sydney, the CDC, walks through the preparation of both the duck annuli and amatriciana, explaining the nuances of their cooking methods and the reasoning behind each step. The atmosphere emphasizes intentionality and care without pretension.
Value & Pricing
No specific pricing information was mentioned in the transcript, though the focus was clearly on quality and technique rather than cost.
Notable Moments
It's really hard to imagine better pasta than this. The dough is just so thin and delicate, perfectly al dente.Sam also learned about the kitchen trick of using scalded milk with cubed butter that is immersion blended to create a stable emulsification that lasts throughout service. The chef explained that scarpetta, the technique of using bread to finish the sauce on the plate, is necessary at Forsythia.
The Verdict
Forsythia is Sam's go-to restaurant when he manages to dine out, visiting nearly every time for the past year and a half. The restaurant exemplifies the theme of intentionality and care without price gouging or pretension. It represents the type of elevated but unpretentious food culture that inspires Sam's own cooking at Lorie Jane. This restaurant is best for anyone seeking expertly crafted Roman pasta prepared with genuine dedication to technique and ingredient quality.