Golden Bear — Review by Food Network
Sacramento, United States — Gastro Pub / California
Golden Bear is a neighborhood gastro pub in Sacramento founded by college buddies and elevated by chef Billy Zolan, featuring creative handmade dishes with a California focus. The reviewer was impressed by innovative items like the no-sauce, no-cheese smoked slo and sausage pizza and a Vietnamese-inspired Banh Mi sandwich with house-made jalapeño aioli. The care taken with fresh, quality ingredients and thoughtful preparation makes this a standout local spot.
What was great: Handmade gastro pub food, creative dishes like the smoked slo and sausage pizza with no sauce or cheese, the Banh Mi sandwich with fresh ingredients and jalapeño aioli, high quality local ingredients, chef Billy Zolan's innovative approach to classic dishes
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Golden Bear showcases chef Billy Zolan's creative take on gastro pub classics. The smoked slo and sausage pizza is a masterpiece of ingenuity - made with no traditional sauce or cheese, it relies on smoking the slo with hickory chips to impart depth, while a house-made aioli and red onion marmalade provide richness and acidity. The sausage is made in-house with fresh pork, garlic, oregano, fennel, and chili flakes, brined and marinated for 24 hours. The crust is perfectly crisp, and the combination works beautifully without anyone missing the absent cheese and sauce.
The Banh Mi sandwich demonstrates similar attention to detail. Pork loin is brined overnight and marinated in Sriracha and black pepper for an hour, then seared and sliced thin. It's layered with house-made jalapeño aioli made from fresh jalapeño juice, egg yolks, lime juice, and minced garlic whisked by hand. Accompanying the pork are blanched long beans, pickled carrots, fresh cucumbers, and cilantro. The flavors are bright and fresh with excellent balance.
Additional menu highlights include creative tacos and various sandwiches like the Bacon Reuben and a club with bacon and duck, showcasing how Zolan reimagines bar basics.
The Experience
Golden Bear embodies a relaxed neighborhood vibe. The restaurant was opened by local college buddies Kimio Bazit and John Mojo who wanted to create a gathering place with a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Staff are attentive and proud of what they're serving, engaging warmly with guests.
Value & Pricing
Specific prices weren't heavily emphasized, but the focus on scratch-made preparations and quality local ingredients suggests fair value for the elevated gastro pub experience.
Notable Moments
The slo is perfumed with smoke. Cabbage goes straight in.
I don't know that if you blindfolded somebody, the average person would really be able to say there's absolutely no cheese and there's absolutely no sauce.
I'm not going to be able to stop eating that.
The Verdict
Golden Bear is a must-visit for those seeking creative gastro pub fare with California pride and meticulous execution. Chef Billy Zolan's approach of deconstructing classics and using house-made components elevates what could be simple bar food into something memorable. The restaurant is perfect for anyone who appreciates the care taken in sourcing fresh ingredients and the innovation required to make dishes sing without relying on expected components. This is neighborhood food done at a high level.