Hezha Restaurant — Review by Blondie in China

The Dishes

Hezha Restaurant specializes in the Tujia specialty called hezha, or lazy tofu, a unique dish created by combining soaked and stone-ground soybeans with their liquid and pulp directly into a pot with vegetables and meat, skipping the traditional straining process of conventional tofu making. The main dish ordered was spicy beef with pickled radish and celery, arriving as a set that included the hezha itself as a complimentary side along with rice and numerous other accompaniments. The signature spicy beef dish proved to be the standout, delivering complex layers of flavor that reflected Enshi's geographic position between multiple culinary regions, tasting pickly and sour like Guizhou cuisine, spicy like Hunan, and featuring Sichuan peppercorn for mouth-numbing sensations, while fresh celery added surprising earthiness and balance.

The meal featured an astounding variety of rapid-fire side dishes that kept arriving throughout service. These included perfectly executed pickled radishes described as needing no notes, cured pork with red onion tasting like bacon, tender pork and corn combinations, remarkably soft pumpkin pieces that were almost drinkable, refreshing pig ear and cucumber salads, peanuts with dried chili offering smokiness without excessive heat, and the local corn cake yumi baba delivering rich caramel sweetness. Mark potatoes appeared in multiple preparations including thinly sliced and fried versions. The hezha itself proved textually compelling with its soft, grainy crumbly consistency that absorbed the surrounding sauce beautifully, arriving with fragrant aromatics and satisfying saltiness.

The Experience

Hezha Restaurant operates using a traditional Enshi ordering system where meals are priced per person at 60 to 100 yuan, with diners selecting a main pot based on ingredients rather than specific dishes. The ordering process was straightforward, and service was attentive with the boss personally recommending dishes and ensuring hot items were consumed at optimal temperature. The restaurant appeared popular and bustling with local families, creating an authentic atmosphere. An unusual feature of the establishment is the seemingly endless parade of side dishes, with everything being refillable including the hezha itself, making the experience feel generous and abundant.

Value & Pricing

Initially, the 60 to 100 RMB per person pricing seemed steep for such a remote location when viewed in isolation. However, once the side dishes began arriving in continuous waves, the perceived value shifted dramatically from expensive to exceptionally cheap. The combination of a quality main pot, the specialty hezha, multiple varieties of rice including potato and corn varieties, and dozens of refillable side dishes represented remarkable value for money when considering the overall abundance and quality delivered.

Notable Moments

I feel like this dish is the epitome of Enshi because I can taste all of the regions in one bowl

Come for the side dishes alone I mean so delicious pickles with every meal smoky everything I love in food is here in Enshi

The discovery that Mark potatoes contain naturally occurring selenium from the local soil, which influences their unique taste profile and appears in everything from tea to fish to produce, added a memorable educational element to the dining experience.

The Verdict

Hezha Restaurant represents an essential dining destination for anyone visiting Enshi seeking authentic Tujia cuisine and an overwhelming display of regional side dish mastery. The restaurant excels at demonstrating how Enshi's mountainous geography and position between several major culinary regions creates uniquely complex flavor combinations unavailable elsewhere. This establishment is perfect for adventurous eaters who appreciate value, abundance, and the opportunity to taste how a single region synthesizes influences from its neighbors into something entirely its own.