Highway In — Review by Food Network
Kaneohe, United States — Hawaiian
Highway In is an authentic, family-owned Hawaiian restaurant started in 1947 that serves traditional island dishes with recipes perfected over generations. The reviewer drove 30 minutes to experience their signature butterfish with stew gravy, lolo, and fresh poi, all prepared using time-honored methods. Every dish showcased the restaurant's commitment to genuine Hawaiian cuisine and family heritage.
What was great: Butterfish with stew gravy, lolo (taro leaf wrapped pork and fish), poi, fresh and authentic Hawaiian cooking, traditional recipes passed down since 1947, coconut custard
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Highway In specializes in traditional Hawaiian comfort food prepared the way the founding family has made it for over 75 years. The butterfish with stew gravy is the star of the menu - a rich, oily fish that melts in your mouth with savory, salty gravy. The reviewer's favorite was the lolo, which consists of taro leaves wrapped around cubed pork, butterfish with bone, and seasonings, then steamed for two hours until all the flavors meld together. The fat from the pork mellows beautifully with the taro leaf's spinach-like texture and herbaceous notes. The poi served cold has a yogurt-like consistency with slight sourness that pairs perfectly with the salty pork. Fresh fish preparations like ai with green onions are also featured, exemplifying the restaurant's access to quality local catch.
The Experience
This is a hole-in-the-wall establishment located about 30 minutes from Honolulu in Kaneohe. The restaurant has maintained its authentic atmosphere and family-run operations since 1947, when the original owner and his seven children built the business. Bobby Toguchi, the son of the founder, still works in the kitchen alongside the next generation, maintaining the exact cooking methods and recipes from the original era. The experience is immersive, with diners witnessing traditional cooking techniques like hand-tying lolo and operating large steamers.
Value and Pricing
The reviewer drove 30 minutes specifically to enjoy the butterfish with stew gravy, suggesting the value and reputation justify the travel time. While specific prices aren't mentioned, the restaurant is positioned as a destination worth the effort for authentic Hawaiian food.
Notable Moments
My grandparents started this in 1947. Had seven children. Out of the seven children, six worked here.
The reviewer was visibly impressed by the coconut custard, declaring it the best version they'd ever had. The hands-on demonstration of lolo preparation showcased the lost art of traditional tying techniques and the precise balance of ingredients needed for authentic preparation.
The Verdict
Highway In is an essential destination for anyone seeking genuine, unadulterated Hawaiian cuisine prepared by a family that has perfected these recipes for generations. The butterfish, lolo, and poi represent comfort food at its finest, with every element carefully considered and executed. This restaurant is best for diners who appreciate authentic cultural food traditions, family heritage, and are willing to travel for an exceptional culinary experience rooted in real Hawaiian cooking history.