Kaba — Review by Eater

The Dishes

The meal begins with Kaba's signature beef patties, hand-assembled fresh daily by kitchen staff member Jen. These handheld delights feature a buttery, flaky pastry shell with sheets of crunch balanced by tender, slightly chewy layers. The beef version includes bone marrow and conch, delivering an incredible textural experience that pairs perfectly with cocktails at the bar. Chef Paul emphasizes the importance of constant refinement, noting that Jen's patties have improved over just two weeks because she refuses to accept anything short of perfection.

The second dish, pork chuletas con, represents Puerto Rican cuisine specifically. This elevated take on the classic dish features a pork chop seared on both sides with the skin crisped to golden perfection, then finished in the oven with a dusting of recaito and a blend of coriander and black pepper. Chef Paul explains that while Puerto Ricans initially question how good his version could be, they consistently say it surpasses even homemade versions from the island. The dish becomes a visual spectacle on the table, earning popularity on Instagram for its dramatic presentation.

The final centerpiece, brined and pressed goat, comes topped with a complex sauce combining onion, garlic, shrimp, scallop, and creole spices. The meat develops crispy, caramelized edges from grilling and roasting while maintaining a rich, tender interior. The sauce itself is peanut-like and seafood-forward, representing Paul's personal interpretation of Caribbean flavors rather than a traditional dish. This creation exemplifies Paul's approach to pan-Caribbean cooking, blending techniques and flavors across the region while maintaining authenticity and personal vision.

The Experience

The video functions as an intimate sit-down interview between Dan Janine and chef Paul Carmichael, revealing the philosophy behind Kaba's success. Paul shares his journey from Barbados to becoming one of New York City's most celebrated chefs, emphasizing that his drive comes from showcasing Caribbean cuisine rather than pursuing accolades or Michelin stars. The atmosphere is one of genuine passion and craftsmanship, with visible dedication from every team member. Service appears seamless, with staff executing precise plating and careful attention to detail throughout the meal preparation.

Value and Pricing

While specific prices aren't mentioned in the transcript, Paul references affordable Caribbean food accessibility. He recalls spending about five dollars on patties during his early days in New York, highlighting how this humble dish sustained him when he had minimal money. The current restaurant operates at a fine dining level, suggesting premium pricing, though the focus remains on value delivered through culinary excellence rather than quantity.

Notable Moments

My biggest worry is always like some grandma or grandpa comes in here and calls me bull.

This reveals Paul's concern about authenticity, questioning whether traditional Caribbean cooks would validate his elevated approach. His response, that he's not interested in jerk chicken because it reinforces limited perceptions of Caribbean food, demonstrates his commitment to comprehensive representation of the region's diverse cuisine.

I want to do this because I don't know. I think that's awesome for a person like me and a personality at me things become very personal.

Paul's reflection on accepting his authentic self and cooking food that makes him happy reveals the emotional foundation of Kaba's success. He credits a pivotal moment at age 36 following a bad breakup and Australian restaurant experience where he realized he should cook what he actually wants rather than fitting into predetermined molds.

Who cares? I'd be so in.

When discussing his ability to achieve Michelin stars by cooking Chinese food, Paul's casual confidence contrasts with his serious commitment to Caribbean cuisine, demonstrating that he's chosen this path not for external validation but personal fulfillment.

The Verdict

Kaba deserves its ranking as New York City's number one restaurant through uncompromising dedication to pan-Caribbean cuisine and continuous culinary refinement. Chef Paul Carmichael has created a destination that honors regional diversity while pushing traditional dishes to new heights through technique and personal vision. The restaurant works because Paul cooks for the right reasons - not for prestige or profit, but to authentically showcase the food he loves. This establishment is perfect for diners seeking genuine, sophisticated Caribbean cuisine prepared with intention and respect for its cultural roots. Whether you're a Caribbean native seeking elevated versions of home cooking or a curious diner exploring regional diversity, Kaba delivers an unforgettable experience.