Kawwan — Review by Uncle Roger
London, United Kingdom — Malaysian
Uncle Roger reviews his own Malaysian restaurant Kawwan in London's Chinatown with pride and self-deprecating humor. The food is exceptional with standout dishes including an addictive spiced fried rice, charred rumor wings, and creative desserts, though the casual interior design doesn't match the premium ingredients and mid-range pricing.
What was great: Flavorful fried rice with deep color and saow, perfectly charred rumor wings with smoky barbecue notes, fresh mango salad for palate cleansing, creative sizzling blue Milo dessert with butterfly pea flour, quality ingredients like scallops and wagyu, generous portions, well-trained staff
What could improve: Interior design feels more like a hawker center or cafeteria rather than premium despite mid-range pricing, Chinatown gate blocks front of restaurant from straight-on shots, some grammar mistakes on menu
The Dishes
The review showcased several impressive Malaysian-inspired dishes. The fried rice from the village, inspired by nasiorang kong, proved to be the star of the show with its deep color, incredible aroma, and addictive quality. Loaded with shrimp, scallops, fried anchovies, and chili, it delivered multiple layers of flavor and heat that caught nephew Gary off guard with its spice level. The rumor wing, named to evoke the feeling of home in Malay, featured stunning char marks from deliberate grilling rather than overcooking. Served alongside a Malaysian acha mango salad that provided sweet, tangy, fruity contrast, this £15.90 dish justified its price with generous meat portions and smoky barbecue notes balanced by the fresh salad.
The dry curry wagyu was intensely spiced with coconut, cardamom, and black pepper in a glossy concentrated sauce that could overwhelm the faint-hearted. The sizzling blue Milo dessert proved memorable, featuring mochi filled with Milo paste, pan-fried on a hot plate, and drizzled with condensed milk butter sauce. The blue color came from butterfly pea flour, a classic Malaysian ingredient rather than artificial food coloring. Nephew Gary and a random customer both found it delicious despite the unusual mochi texture that western diners sometimes find strange.
The Experience
Located in Chinatown, Kawwan had just opened when this review was filmed. Uncle Roger noted it was the quietest he'd ever seen Chinatown, with queues dispersing by the time of filming. The downstairs area is quite small, with Uncle Roger recommending customers try to sit upstairs for better views and lighting. Service was attentive and well-trained, with staff immediately providing an extra plate when customers started sharing dessert without being asked. The atmosphere reflects a casual hawker center vibe rather than fine dining, though staff showed pride in their work.
Value and Pricing
Uncle Roger addressed pricing head-on, noting that dishes like the fried rice and rumor wings are actually cheaper when ordered now (fried rice at £15.90, rumor wings at £12.90 during the review) compared to opening prices. He acknowledged the seeming contradiction between mid-range pricing and premium ingredients like scallops, wagyu, and Chinese olives, attributing this to the need to charge fairly despite London's central location in Chinatown. He humorously noted that people happily pay similar prices for pasta without complaint, suggesting Asian food pricing discrimination exists.
Notable Moments
If you want to make a million dollars from a restaurant, you have to start with two million dollars. Trust me, restaurant is very difficult. There is no money in it. Uncle Roger just doing this out of passion.
The reason we say don't move it from the top is because that wood part connects to the metal part with a little screw. And in a restaurant when you're serving, you never want to have a loose screw in your dish because if a loose screw falls into a plate, someone eats a screw and then what are you going to do?
Uncle Roger's self-roasting humor shone throughout, including jokes about the Chinatown gate blocking shots, nephew Gary's chopstick skills, the grammar mistake on the menu missing an 's' in 'wing', and the awkward 'happy ending' moment with a stranger. He also enlisted a random customer (Adrian York) to try the dessert, who gave it four stars despite being asked why not five.
The Verdict
Nephew Gary awarded Kawwan nine out of 10, praising the unique Malaysian-inspired dishes that balance bold flavors with thoughtful palate cleansing elements. Uncle Roger expressed pride in what the team created while acknowledging room for improvement, particularly wishing the interior design felt more premium to match the quality ingredients and pricing. He encouraged viewers to visit and promised to continue learning and improving, with hopes to open a second location where interior design could be enhanced. Kawwan is perfect for anyone seeking authentic Malaysian flavors in central London, whether tourists or locals wanting something special beyond traditional dishes available elsewhere in Chinatown.