Keens Steakhouse — Review by Munchies
New York, United States — Steakhouse
A sophisticated wine and food pairing experience at the legendary Keens Steakhouse in New York City featuring Master Sommeliers exploring Cabernet Sauvignon across different regions and vintages. The restaurant showcased classic steakhouse excellence with its iconic porterhouse and secret menu highlight of mutton chops, beautifully paired with wines ranging from a 1986 Richie Creek to a 1974 Ridge Montebello, creating an unforgettable gastronomic and educational experience.
What was great: Unapologetically old school atmosphere, delicious porterhouse steaks, exceptional mutton chops, excellent wine pairings with both beef and lamb, knowledgeable sommelier staff
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Keens Steakhouse delivered classic steakhouse excellence with their signature porterhouse steak as the centerpiece. The standout item, however, was their mutton chop, which the hosts identified as the secret to the menu and a perfect complement to Cabernet wines. The meal also featured creamed spinach with carrots and other traditional steakhouse sides that paired beautifully with the wines being sampled. The lamb with mint jelly was particularly highlighted for how it unlocked different flavor characteristics in the various Cabernet selections, bringing out the fruity, juicy qualities in the Napa Valley wine while emphasizing the savory, elegant notes in the Bordeaux option.
The Experience
The atmosphere at Keens was described as unapologetically old school, creating the perfect setting for a serious wine education experience. The restaurant hosted an impressive lineup including Master Sommeliers Jonathan Iikolds and Vincent Marrow, renowned sommelier Angela Morrow, and wine collector Tim Parks. The service and sommelier expertise were exemplary, allowing for sophisticated wine discussions and pairings. The intimate gathering created an educational yet celebratory atmosphere where wine and food were experienced across their entire lifecycle, from young fruit-forward expressions to complex aged vintages.
Value and Pricing
While specific menu prices were not mentioned for the steakhouse offerings, the focus of the episode centered on premium wine pairings, including a 1986 Richie Creek and an exceptionally rare 1974 Ridge Montebello. The experience represented high-end fine dining with corresponding premium pricing, though the value proposition was exceptional given the quality of both food and wine expertise provided.
Notable Moments
This Richie Creek is like starting to like really open up its peak right now. And every time I smell this wine, I cannot stop smelling it and smiling. It's a perfect bottle of wine.
One of my life hacks is I sit around with the master sommeliers and I listen to their notes and then I just steal them and I go and drink with my non-sommelier friends and impress them.
The cool thing is when you find a really old bottle that's actually still delicious, it's not delicious because it's interesting or different, it's still delicious because you want another bottle.
The Verdict
Keens Steakhouse proved to be an exceptional venue for serious wine and food exploration, living up to its legendary status. The restaurant's commitment to classic preparation methods, particularly their famous mutton chops and porterhouse, provided the perfect canvas for understanding how different Cabernet Sauvignon expressions from various regions and vintages interact with food. This establishment is best suited for wine enthusiasts, fine dining aficionados, and those seeking an educational experience that celebrates the traditions of American steakhouse dining and classical wine pairing. It's a destination restaurant that honors both culinary and enological heritage while delivering an unforgettable dining experience.