Kodima — Review by Bon Appetit
New York, United States — Mexican
Kodima is a Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant in Chinatown, New York City dedicated to exploring northern Mexican cuisine through innovative techniques and whole animal butchery. The restaurant is known for its exceptional sourdough flour tortillas made with a six-year-old starter and creative dishes that challenge traditional expectations, such as duck heart tacos and lamb organ sausage preparations.
What was great: Innovative sourdough flour tortillas made with a six-year-old starter, whole animal butchery approach that utilizes organ meats creatively, Spanish turbo fish preparation, dedication to northern Mexican cuisine, Michelin-star recognition
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Kodima presents a carefully curated tasting menu approach where diners trust the kitchen rather than reading a traditional menu. The lamb organ sausage taco is a standout dish, featuring a meatball made with brain that creams out the sausage, served in a blue corn masa tortilla with Italian artichoke heart puree, raw artichokes, wild spring onions, jalapeno vinegar, and minor lettuce. The Spanish turbo fish receives special attention, aged for 10 days before preparation and served with corn husk sauce, a liquor called nika, caviar, and plankton. The turbo preparation includes both poaching in vermouth and grilling, showcasing the fish's versatility and meaty texture. Massachusetts scallops prepared as a crudeau dish open the meal, featuring a whey and pineapple chile broth reminiscent of an awache, seasoned with chayote squash, yuzu kosho, and olive oil, then sliced and placed between jicama for the first course.
The Experience
The restaurant operates with a circular kitchen design that encourages staff to share techniques and stories while maintaining cohesion. The kitchen features dedicated stations including a tortilla production area where most of the kitchen's ferments, misos, garams, and lacto fermentations are stored and prepared. Service is intense and precise, with 94 guests scheduled for the day of filming, including 43 confirmed tastings and multiple unannounced tasting menu guests. The team goes through a pre-service ritual that includes dimming lights for a zen atmosphere and changing into service uniforms. The kitchen is passionate and focused, with staff members even getting tattoos of the turbo fish they love preparing.
Value & Pricing
Pricing information is not explicitly mentioned in the transcript, but the restaurant's Michelin star recognition and upscale tasting menu format suggest fine dining pricing.
Notable Moments
We earned our first Michelin star 11 months in of opening. And our mission in this restaurant is to discover what Mexican cuisine is, was, and it could be.
People always want ribe eyes. People always want strips. Nobody really talks about chucks, you know, and chucks are like shoulders. Like beef shoulders are so beautiful. That's why we get whole animals because we can decide how to butcher how fresh it is.
The heart's like super beautiful. That's why we want to share our menu at the beginning because again, we believe that we can make like lamb hearts pretty tasty.
The Verdict
Kodima represents a significant elevation of Mexican cuisine in the fine dining space, earning its Michelin star through innovative technique, respect for whole animal butchery, and a commitment to showcasing what Mexican cuisine can be. The no-menu approach forces diners to trust the kitchen's vision, which is validated by their creative preparation of organ meats, exceptional sourdough tortillas made with a historic starter, and careful sourcing of proteins like Spanish turbo. This restaurant is best for adventurous diners who appreciate fine dining approaches to Mexican cuisine and are willing to embrace unexpected dishes like duck heart tacos and lamb organ sausage. Chef Cavayto and his team's passion is evident throughout the kitchen, making Kodima essential for those seeking to understand the future of Mexican fine dining.