Motherwolf — Review by Tastemade
Los Angeles, United States — Italian, Roman
Motherwolf is an iconic Roman restaurant in Hollywood that authentically brings the streets of Rome to Los Angeles through meticulous design and exceptional cuisine. Chef Evan Funke offers hard-to-find traditional Roman dishes like cacio e pepe and fried artichokes, executed with respect to tradition and remarkable craftsmanship. The entire experience, from the hand-painted wallpaper to the open kitchen theater, creates an immersive and luxurious dining destination.
What was great: Crispy Roman-style pizza, perfectly executed cacio e pepe pasta, fried artichokes with exceptional preparation, saltimbocca, beautiful design with hand-blown Venetian glass chandeliers and custom furnishings, interactive open kitchen experience, authentic Roman cuisine rarely found in LA
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The menu at Motherwolf showcases quintessential Roman cuisine prepared with exceptional precision. The margarita pizza stands out as a contemporary Roman creation with a delicate, crispy crust that crackles when you bite into it - crispy rather than crunchy, striking a perfect balance. The cacio e pepe, the most celebrated dish on the menu, is prepared as it has been for hundreds of years, with Evan noting that when he opened, nobody else in Los Angeles was making this authentic pasta.
The fried artichokes are highlighted as the chef's personal favorite and the first recommendation to guests. These viola artichokes are blanched in olive oil and then deep fried to achieve a perfect potato chip crispiness. The preparation requires massive amounts of labor and time, involving careful cleaning, peeling, blanching, and frying - a testament to the serious dedication to Roman food traditions.
The saltimbocca is another standout dish that deserves mention. The name means to jump in the mouth, referring both to its deliciousness and quick preparation. Pounded red veal is seasoned with sage, finished with white wine, and topped with crispy prosciutto in brown butter - a dish that appears on 100% of Roman menus.
The Experience
Walking into Motherwolf immediately transports you from Hollywood to Rome. The design is intentionally grand and opulent, featuring custom-made leather chairs, hand-painted Moroccan tiles in the kitchen, and stunning chandeliers with hand-blown Venetian glass bulbs that are individually hand-painted. The wallpaper features wolves and was digitally 3D printed to create realistic shadows that make it appear as tiled walls.
One of the most special aspects of the experience is the open kitchen design, which allows guests to witness the pizza makers stretching dough and cooking their meals. This transparency builds a genuine connection between diners and kitchen staff, with the owner noting that nine times out of ten, guests seated at the tables have conversations with the cooks. The design of the restaurant deliberately creates a Cheers-like atmosphere where people want to hang out and build community.
Value & Pricing
While specific prices are not detailed in the transcript, the restaurant clearly positions itself as a luxury dining experience. The craftsmanship evident in every design element, from custom furnishings to hand-painted details and imported Venetian glass, indicates premium pricing. The extensive labor involved in dishes like fried artichokes and the authentic Roman preparation methods justify the investment.
Notable Moments
When I started cooking cacio e pepe, which is like the most quintessential Roman pasta, nobody was cooking cacio e pepe in Los Angeles. I checked. Nobody.
LA is missing like grandness. It's missing luxury. It's missing opulent things. That's why I chose to do a Roman restaurant here because it's kind of like a juxtaposition. Beautiful, opulent, luxurious, and comfortable surroundings with super rustic food.
The first thing I say is artichokes.
The Verdict
Motherwolf is an exceptional destination for anyone seeking authentic Roman cuisine in Los Angeles. Chef Evan Funke has created something truly special - a restaurant that respects culinary traditions while creating an immersive theatrical dining experience. The commitment to authenticity, from requiring that every dish be taught by someone with roots in Italian cooking to sourcing hand-blown Venetian glass, sets this restaurant apart. It's perfect for diners who appreciate craftsmanship, storytelling, and the layering of cultural nuances into their dining experience. Whether you're craving traditional Roman pasta, exceptional pizza, or simply want to experience the grandeur and luxury that Los Angeles was missing, Motherwolf delivers on every level.