New Zealand Kati Roll — Review by Bon Appetit
Delhi, India — Indian Street Food
The reviewer visits New Zealand, a famous Delhi street cart known for butter chicken kati rolls. He witnesses the meticulous preparation process including hand-rolled paratha, charcoal tandoor cooking, and custom filling options. The final product delivers on its promise with perfectly flaky layers, moist butter chicken, and a silky egg layer that creates an extraordinary street food experience.
What was great: Flaky, perfectly layered paratha with crispy exterior and buttery interior; moist and tangy butter chicken filling; fresh egg cooked into the paratha; customizable options; expert craftsmanship and technique using traditional charcoal tandoor oven; attention to detail and pride in the work
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The star of the show is the butter chicken kati roll with a single egg, a customizable creation that showcases the vendor's dedication to his craft. The chicken is first skewered and cooked in a traditional charcoal tandoor oven at around 900 to 1000 degrees, allowing the metal skewer to heat through and cook the meat from both inside and out. The chicken is then sauteed on a flat top griddle with green bell peppers and onions, creating a flavorful base before being coated in a rich butter chicken sauce that caramelizes on the griddle itself. The paratha is hand-rolled using an intricate folding technique that creates multiple layers of separation through careful application of ghee and flour. A single egg is whisked and cooked directly onto the paratha, creating a soft, fluffy layer that acts almost like a mayonnaise binding agent. The finished roll is topped with shaved onions, mayonnaise, Indian ketchup, mint and yogurt green chutney, and salad. The result is a spectacular display of flakiness with perfectly distributed egg throughout.
The Experience
The operation is a marvel of street food engineering and organization. The vendor has a small front-facing cart displaying all available customization options, followed by a hidden kitchen area where the magic happens. The charcoal tandoor oven is a rare find in modern Delhi, where most vendors have switched to gas tandoors. The vendor uses homemade equipment setup with an LP tank, cast iron slab on four bricks, and a well-seasoned flat top griddle that shows years of carbonization on its bottom surface. Every order is made fresh to order, demonstrating commitment to quality. The vendor has been perfecting this craft for 16 years with clear pride in his work and technique.
Value & Pricing
Specific pricing is not mentioned in the transcript, but the customizable nature of the rolls suggests reasonable street food pricing typical of Delhi's street food scene. Options range from simple plain chicken tikka to elaborate combinations like double egg double chicken mala tikka rolls.
Notable Moments
Oh my lord. God dang. Somebody just slapped me silly. This is incredible.
The reviewer expresses awe at the taste and texture, noting the contrast between the crispy outer layer and buttery soft interior. He compares the paratha-rolling technique to French patisserie and pottery work, highlighting the artistry involved. He also notes the vendor's meticulous attention to detail, such as tucking escaped egg back into the roll to ensure the customer gets every bit they paid for.
The Verdict
New Zealand's kati rolls represent the pinnacle of Delhi street food craftsmanship. The combination of traditional cooking methods, precise technique, and genuine passion for the craft creates a street food experience that transcends typical fast food. The reviewer emphasizes that it's impossible to return to ordinary food after experiencing this level of quality and care. The restaurant is perfect for anyone seeking authentic, expertly executed Indian street food and wanting to witness genuine culinary artistry in action. The customizable nature ensures there's something for every palate, from simple versions to elaborate multi-component rolls.