Paper Dosa — Review by Food Network
Santa Fe, United States — South Indian
Paper Dosa brings authentic South Indian cuisine to Santa Fe, run by chef Paul Raj and his wife Nelly. The masala dosa features a crispy crepe-like exterior with creamy potato filling and excellent chutneys, while the chetnad lamb curry is a standout with tender meat and a complex blend of spices. This is a must-visit restaurant for anyone seeking genuine South Indian flavors.
What was great: Authentic South Indian cuisine, masala dosa with crispy exterior and flavorful fillings, chetnad lamb curry with tender meat and complex spices, coconut and tomato chutneys, fresh ingredients prepared daily
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Paper Dosa specializes in South Indian cuisine, a style notably less common in northern regions of India. The masala dosa is the signature dish - a crispy crepe made from fermented rice and lentil batter filled with a potato masala that has been cooked down for 45 minutes with mustard seeds, chana dal, cashew nuts, red chilies, curry leaves, turmeric, and onions. The dosa is served with house-made coconut chutney and tomato chutney, each adding its own dimension of flavor. The reviewer noted the dish has remarkable textural variety - creamy, spicy, crunchy, and sweet all in one bite.
The chetnad lamb curry is the chef's favorite menu item and for good reason. The lamb shoulder is marinated for 8 to 12 hours in garam masala, cumin, chili powder, fennel, coriander, yogurt, mint, and cilantro. The curry is built with an intricate spice blend including cardamom, mace, tree bark (lykan), cloves, fennel seed, cumin seed, peppercorns, bay leaf, star anise, cinnamon, coriander seed, marathi mocha, poppy seed, curry leaves, and red chilies - all toasted together. The lamb is stewed for an hour and a half, with cashew paste added at the end. It arrives with rice, pickled vegetables, and fresh mint garnish.
The Experience
The restaurant is warm and welcoming, with chef Paul Raj and his wife Nelly actively involved in service. The reviewer was invited into the kitchen to help prepare the dishes, experiencing firsthand the care and technique that goes into each meal. The atmosphere is intimate and personal, reflecting the owners' genuine passion for sharing their culinary heritage.
Value and Pricing
While specific prices are not mentioned in the transcript, the reviewer emphasizes that Paper Dosa offers exceptional quality and authenticity that rivals even restaurants in India and major cities like New York.
Notable Moments
If I lived here, I would be here once a week easy. I mean, it is really flavorful. Crunch of the dosa doesn't feel real heavy. You're not eating a big flour tortilla. You got some really interesting chutneys going on.
This is the only Indian restaurant today... it takes a lot of effort to make this kind of food fresh every day. And I think that's what makes paper dosa really different.
I've tried South Indian food in India. I've tried it in New York. I've tried it in other places. This is really authentic. This is really good.
The Verdict
Paper Dosa is a must-visit destination for anyone seeking authentic South Indian cuisine. Chef Paul Raj and his wife Nelly have created something truly special - a place where traditional recipes and techniques are honored with meticulous attention to detail. The food is fresh, flavorful, and represents a style of Indian cooking that is uncommon even in India. This restaurant is perfect for those who appreciate genuine ethnic cuisine prepared with love and expertise.