Pinkerton's Barbecue — Review by Mark Wiens

The Dishes

Pinkerton's serves an outstanding array of smoked meats that showcase meticulous preparation. The brisket is the star, beginning at around 17-18 pounds and trimmed to approximately 12-14 pounds with an aerodynamic bullet shape. It arrives incredibly moist and tender, with the meat literally wobbling on the plate and falling apart at the slightest pressure. The crust is heavily seasoned with salt and pepper rub, creating a perfect contrast to the juicy interior saturated with smoke flavor.

The pork ribs are cooked using Pinkerton's signature process: initial seasoning with dry rub, smoking, then wrapping in foil with brown sugar and sauce for additional smoking. The result is meat that slides cleanly off the bone with zero effort required. The beef ribs are enormous, requiring two hands to hold, with thick bark and an almost unbelievable tenderness described as a 'meat pillow.' A single finger press into the meat leaves an impression, and teeth glide through effortlessly into what tastes like melting meat butter.

The jalapeno cheddar sausage features a satisfying snap when bitten, releasing warm cheese and jalapeno flavor like 'chocolate lava cake.' Supporting meats include moist smoked turkey breast saturated with smoky flavor and peppery crust, and chicken breast that remains creamy despite being a typically dry cut. Sides include creamy potato salad with green onions, well-seasoned beans with green chilies and paprika, duck jambalaya with smoked duck flavor and red bell peppers, and boudin with melted rice and Cajun seasoning. An interesting mac and cheese features creaminess and saltiness with herbal notes.

Desserts are family recipes according to Grant, including banana pudding with sweet banana and custard creaminess, a unique blueberry cream cheesecake that's fluffy rather than heavy, and blueberry crumble with crispy buttery texture and tart berries.

The Experience

Grant Pinkerton himself is present and passionate about the craft, sharing the story of how he started cooking barbecue in his parents' backyard and eventually launched the restaurant in 2016. The restaurant features old-school pits that burn approximately five logs and can fit 65 briskets each. The dining experience includes a front-of-house carving station where customers select their meat, a dining room, and outdoor seating. Service is warm and welcoming, with staff presenting finished meats with pride.

The atmosphere emphasizes the craft and heritage of barbecue smoking, with visible pits showing the cooking process. Grant explains the philosophy of cooking with heat rather than smoke, with smoke being a byproduct. The restaurant's Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand recognition adds prestige to the experience.

Value and Pricing

While specific prices aren't detailed in the transcript, the massive portion sizes and quality of meats suggest premium pricing. The experience includes multiple meat selections, several sides, and desserts, indicating a substantial meal that justifies the cost through superior quality and preparation.

Notable Moments

I think we cooked 46,000 briskets last year

It's like a meat pillow

That is straight up a meat pillow

Melting in your mouth is an understatement

The barbecue is so good. The brisket is so good. You would be happy to come here and just eat brisket, but there's so much more

The Verdict

Pinkerton's Barbecue is a must-try Houston destination that delivers on every level. The owner's passion for craft barbecue, combined with meticulous preparation techniques including long rests of 8-16 hours and carefully selected seasonings, results in some of the finest barbecue in Texas. Every meat is incredibly moist despite long cooking times, perfectly seasoned, and deeply infused with smoke flavor. This restaurant is best for barbecue purists and enthusiasts seeking exceptional quality, those interested in modern craft barbecue techniques, and anyone wanting to experience brisket and beef ribs at their absolute finest.