Play with Fire — Review by Eating With Tod
London, United Kingdom — Fire-cooked, Contemporary British
Play with Fire is an exceptional pop-up restaurant run by chef Matt at East London Brewery, featuring expertly prepared fire-cooked dishes that belie his only three years of professional experience. Despite the outstanding quality of every dish from the confit pork cheeks to the outstanding smoked Alabama chicken, the business is struggling and facing closure within two weeks. The reviewer was so impressed he offered a 1,500 pound tip to help save the restaurant.
What was great: Iberico pork cheeks confit in their own fat with char siu sauce, Chinese style duck leg slow smoked and confit, wagyu skewer with bone marrow, slow cooked short rib with charred pineapple, smoked Alabama chicken grilled with burnt lemon and Alabama sauce
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The meal began with starters that immediately set the tone for an exceptional dining experience. The Iberico pork cheeks were confit in their own fat for four hours and served with Texas toast, pickles, and a char siu dipping sauce, delivering rich, complex flavors. The Chinese style duck leg followed, slow smoked and confit in its own fat, presenting a beautiful pink hue from the smoking process and accompanied by homemade turmeric hoisin sauce served with pancakes. Among the kebabs, the wagyu skewer served upon bone marrow with sliced gilda relish proved to be a standout.
The mains section elevated the experience further. A slow cooked short rib arrived with charred pineapple, so tender it couldn't be picked up with hands. However, the dish of the day was undoubtedly the smoked Alabama chicken, which was grilled and hit with burnt lemon and Alabama sauce. The reviewer described the chicken breast as one of the juiciest he'd ever seen, comparing it favorably to most steaks he's had in his life.
The Experience
Play with Fire operates from East London Brewery, providing a vibrant setting with excellent beers available alongside the food. The atmosphere appears casual yet focused on quality, with the restaurant functioning as a pop-up where chef Matt personally executes his vision.
Value and Pricing
While specific pricing wasn't mentioned in detail, the reviewer's decision to offer a 1,500 pound tip speaks volumes about the perceived value and quality of the experience, suggesting the restaurant offers exceptional quality for its price point.
Notable Moments
That chicken, honestly, was better than most steaks I've ever had in my life.
How this guy didn't sell a single item last Thursday is beyond me.
Don't let this business close. You can't take a day to create. Enjoy.
The Verdict
Play with Fire represents a tragic situation where exceptional culinary talent is going unrecognized, with the business facing closure despite producing restaurant-quality dishes that rival establishments with decades of experience. Matt's three years of professional experience combined with his background working in London's best fire kitchens has resulted in a menu that demonstrates mastery well beyond his tenure. This restaurant is a must-visit for anyone seeking innovative, expertly executed fire-cooked cuisine and should be supported by anyone who values quality dining and independent chefs taking risks with their craft.