Snow's Barbecue — Review by First We Feast

The Dishes

Snow's Barbecue offers a carefully curated menu that has remained largely unchanged since 2008, focusing on items that showcase traditional Central Texas barbecue expertise. The pork steak, a specialty item that Tootsie was known for before opening Snow's, is a 2.5-inch thick cut that the reviewer described as standing out forever as one of the best bites of barbecue ever experienced. The meat displays a beautiful smoke ring with rendered fat that has an almost caramel pork belly quality, combining the crispy bark of burnt ends with sweet, cashew-like flavor from perfectly smoked pork.

The smoked half chicken is done over direct heat to achieve crispy skin that pops like a sausage casing, yet remains incredibly tender due to constant basting and turning by Tootsie herself. The ribs, prepared without wrapping throughout the entire cooking process, achieve a sticky crispy bark through time and skill alone, reminiscent of old-school New York Chinese food spare ribs. The brisket exhibits serious craftsmanship with beautiful smoke coloring, a fat ribbon on top, and caramelization rather than char, delivering the most primal tasting essence of beef with mineral notes shining through. The jalapeño cheese sausage offers surprising depth of flavor with black pepper forward notes and citrus undertones, while the turkey breast is cooked at extreme heat without drying out.

The Experience

Snow's Barbecue operates on a Saturday-only basis until food runs out, creating an experience unlike typical restaurants. Customers arrive hours before opening, with some waiting from 11 p.m. the previous night in chairs outside, arriving by 9 a.m. the prior day, or sleeping in vans across the street. The reviewer arrived at 4 a.m. as number 18 in line. Despite these extreme wait times, customers describe it as an adventure and worth the effort. The restaurant conducts raffles with people in line to make the experience more enjoyable, and even gave a trip to the front of the line to visitors from Sweden. The establishment is managed by owner Kerry Bexley and features the legendary 91-year-old barbecue queen Tootsie Tomanetz personally overseeing chicken cooking with hawk-like attention to detail.

Value and Pricing

While specific prices are not mentioned in the transcript, the price range appears moderate given the exceptional quality and portions served. The fact that customers willingly wait overnight and travel from around the world, including from Sweden and North Carolina, suggests the value proposition is exceptional relative to the quality and uniqueness of the barbecue offered.

Notable Moments

I have been blessed to go to barbecue places around the country, and this will stand out forever as one of the best bites of barbecue I have ever eaten.

Ain't no such thing as just a pitmaster.

God has given me this opportunity. I'm 91. I don't know how much longer I've got, but I do hope that God gives me several more years.

The reviewer also experienced hands-on instruction from pitmaster Clay Cowgill on how to properly feel a brisket to determine doneness by checking if the flat feels soft like a pillow, learning that proper barbecue requires sitting by the fire sweating it out rather than using modern automated cookers.

The Verdict

Snow's Barbecue stands as a remarkable exception to typical restaurant dynamics where people wait overnight and accept limited hours without resentment. Built on the hard work of countless people waking up without sleep and grinding hard for visitors from around the world, Snow's represents the pinnacle of Central Texas barbecue tradition. The restaurant is best for serious barbecue enthusiasts willing to make the effort to visit on Saturday, with specific recommendation to arrive early enough to try the pork steak before it sells out, and to experience the smoked half chicken which is among the first items to become unavailable. This is essential eating for anyone seeking authentic, masterfully-prepared barbecue.