Summerville — Review by Eater
Los Angeles, United States — Contemporary American
Chef Nyesha Arrington visits Summerville, a contemporary American restaurant in South LA inspired by a jazz supper club, and experiences the chef's signature collard green lasagna. The restaurant celebrates the neighborhood's rich history and culture with elevated comfort food that honors traditional dishes while bringing them into a modern Los Angeles context. The dining experience perfectly captures the essence of LA through its food, atmosphere, and community-focused mission.
What was great: Collard green lasagna with its unique blend of flavors and textures, fried chicken and caviar sliders, the atmosphere and live jazz music, the storytelling behind dishes, celebration of community and culture, service consistency
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
The standout dish of the visit is the collard green lasagna, a unique and unexpected creation that becomes the focal point of the episode. The dish features multiple layers of carefully crafted components: spinach pasta made fresh daily with double zero flour and maximum hydration, braised collard greens that simmer for an hour and a half with garlic oil, leeks, shallots, white wine, apple cider vinegar, and sun-dried tomato, lemon ricotta filling, Swiss cheese and Gruyère, and topped with an 18-month aged Parmesan cheese with Aleppo pepper. The classic béchamel sauce ties it all together, creating what the chef describes as tasting like LA itself. The fried chicken and caviar sliders are noted as the restaurant's number one seller, while the short rib is also mentioned as a customer favorite. These dishes pay homage to traditional Southern cuisine while bringing them into a modern era that feels ancestral and celebratory.
The Experience
Summerville is described as a contemporary American restaurant inspired by a jazz supper club, featuring live jazz music every night. Upon entering, guests are immediately transported through the aroma, vibe, sounds, and acoustics of the space. The restaurant is located in View Park-Windsor Hills, one of the wealthiest communities of color in America. The atmosphere celebrates the neighborhood's history, particularly the Dunbar Hotel built by Dr. and Mrs. Somerville, which served as an unofficial launch pad for West Coast jazz music and civil rights movements. The service is consistently praised, and the ambiance with live music is described as always being on point.
Value & Pricing
Specific pricing information is not mentioned in the transcript, though the restaurant is positioned as an elevated dining destination that brings fine dining quality to South LA.
Notable Moments
This is Summerville. That's pretty delicious. You can feel literally the celebration of community. This right here tastes like LA.
Summerville, we describe it as an ode to the past, a toast to the present, and then a celebration of the progress.
The memorable conversation about the restaurant's inspiration reveals that the owners grew up in the neighborhood and wanted to intentionally elevate the area by bringing fine dining to a community that primarily had fast food and liquor stores. The restaurant has become a destination that draws people from across Los Angeles to discover South LA.
The Verdict
Summerville is a remarkable restaurant that successfully blends ancestral cooking techniques with modern California cuisine while celebrating community and culture. The collard green lasagna alone is worth the visit, showcasing innovative thinking about traditional Southern ingredients. This restaurant is best for anyone seeking authentic, elevated comfort food with a story, those who appreciate live jazz music, and anyone wanting to experience a dining space that genuinely celebrates the neighborhood and its rich history. It represents the best of what Los Angeles has to offer culinarily and culturally.