The 86 — Review by Bon Appetit

The Dishes

The 86 specializes in premium dry-aged beef with remarkable precision. The 107-day aged coffee and tobacco crusted bone-in strip represents the restaurant's commitment to extended aging, with the coffee and cigarette crust bringing out umami and unctuousness in the beef. The spanalis, a rib cap muscle from prime American corn-fed beef aged for 11 days, showcases a developing bark and exceptional tenderness. Stone Ax 89 filet mignon from Queensland, Australia displays gorgeous marbling with a 9-plus beef score, offering beautiful intramuscular fat distribution and natural salinity from seagrass feeding. The kitchen also prepares a spectacular porterhouse cut from Australian wagyu and Kansas City strip from Rosewood, recognized as the finest American wagyu available. Beyond steaks, the menu features whole animal utilization including dry-aged duck breasts with house-made sausage, Hokkaido sardines prepared as three-piece crudo with garlic oil and ice wine vinegar, live sea scallops finished in a crudeo style, and Dover sole from southern France prepared with brining and careful butchery. Premium items like Hudson Valley foie gras prepared as torchon and wild morels round out the offerings.

The Experience

The 86 occupies just 200 square feet of kitchen space with only 35 seats across 10 tables in a 102-year-old building in the West Village. Despite its tiny footprint, every square inch is meticulously designed and utilized, featuring Hemingway's historic booth where the literary figure famously passed out drunk. The operation runs like a well-oiled machine with typically three to four cooks managing service. The restaurant opens at 4 p.m., described as the new 9 p.m., accommodating modern dining preferences. The kitchen features tight, efficient passageways with creative traffic flow solutions including two separate entrances. Pre-shift meetings with the entire team occur daily at 3:30 p.m., demonstrating serious attention to consistency and communication.

Value & Pricing

This is decidedly fine dining with luxury pricing. The rare spanalis rib cap steaks cost approximately 80 to 90 dollars per pound after trimming, with roughly four pieces yielded per steak and only eight available per entire animal, making it an exclusive bespoke offering. Fresh Hokkaido strawberries from Malaga, Spain are priced at 325 dollars for two kilograms (15 pieces). While exact menu prices aren't detailed, the sourcing and preparation justify premium pricing for a restaurant that just earned recognition as the best steakhouse in the US.

Notable Moments

We are small but mighty. It's like an attack battle sub here. Every little spot is hyperdesigned and focused. We are unconventional. We are uncompromising. And we are lunatics in hospitality.

This is a loss leader. I don't make a lot of money on this steak. It barely breaks even and covers cost of it. But it's an honor to be able to serve it to guests and have them enjoy the experience of the decal.

We became number 12 in the world on the 101 best steakhouse list. Um to the crew that does this in and out in a basement, up a staircase, through a doorway, in a hallway, and you guys make it all happen.

The Verdict

The 86 represents the pinnacle of American steakhouse dining, combining historical significance with modern obsessive craftsmanship. Chef Michael Vnola's uncompromising approach to ingredient sourcing, beef aging, and meticulous butchery elevates the dining experience beyond simple steak consumption. The restaurant's recent accolades as the US's best steakhouse are well-deserved. This establishment is best for serious carnivores and luxury diners who appreciate the intricate details behind their meal, from the 107-day-aged beef to the carefully sourced spring ingredients. It's an experience worth seeking out despite the small size and premium pricing.