The Modern — Review by Bon Appetit

The Dishes

The Modern's tasting menu showcases meticulous culinary technique and creative composition. The signature dish 'eggs on eggs on eggs' demonstrates the kitchen's commitment to detail, featuring a fried egg sauce at the bottom, a carefully poached egg yolk from specially sourced small eggs, pickled shallots, fresh dill, and finished with caviar. The turbo fish course highlights Spanish and Portuguese fish that is cured, dried for a full day, then roasted with aggressive heat and rested in beurre blanc to maintain moisture and create a rainbow effect. It's served with a turnips and fresh green chickpea ragu glazed in olive oil and pepper oil. The Wagyu strip steak is cooked on Japanese charcoal and paired with a red cabbage juice sauce rather than traditional meat reduction, served alongside compressed potatoes and radicchio. The lobster course features mitakei mushrooms and a smoked paprika emulsion. Each dish demonstrates the kitchen's philosophy of preparing everything in advance while maintaining perfect temperature and seasoning at the moment of service.

The Experience

The Modern operates with remarkable precision across multiple distinct spaces including the main dining room, barroom (neighborhood restaurant within the restaurant), and private dining room. The kitchen maintains approximately 75 guests in the dining room, 45 in private space, and 120 in the barroom simultaneously, all coordinated through an open kitchen design that allows visibility and seamless team communication. The kitchen operates without individual ticket printers for each station, instead using a unified pass system and verbal communication with standardized responses. The dining room staff controls the timing of each course by communicating with the kitchen when they want courses fired, with a precise seven-minute window for plating and service. The kitchen table in the corner of the dining room allows the kitchen to visually monitor guests and time courses perfectly. Service demonstrates exceptional flexibility and problem-solving, as when a guest last-minute revealed she doesn't eat red meat, the team immediately utilized the barroom's different menu to source a beautiful pork chop instead, ensuring her experience wasn't compromised.

Value & Pricing

Pricing information is not explicitly mentioned in the video, though the 2-Michelin-star status and sophisticated tasting menu format indicate premium pricing typical of fine dining establishments of this caliber.

Notable Moments

If you find yourself falling behind, just go faster.

This philosophy encapsulates the kitchen's mindset during service.

We have to actually work with farmers to get really small eggs, which drives you crazy because the farmers are like, 'Why don't you want big eggs?' And we're like, 'Because we want the littlest ones you have.'

This quote reveals the obsessive attention to detail that defines the restaurant's approach.

We can't tell the guests, oh, because you didn't tell us that you don't eat red meat earlier, now that your experience is going to be sacrificed. We want to make their experience as seamless as possible.

This moment demonstrates the restaurant's commitment to guest satisfaction and adaptability.

The Verdict

The Modern represents the pinnacle of fine dining execution, where technical precision, communication, and culinary creativity converge seamlessly. Executive Chef Thomas Allen's leadership creates a kitchen culture where every team member understands not just their individual role but the broader objectives of perfect timing and exceptional food quality. The restaurant is ideal for discerning diners seeking an immersive, high-level culinary experience that demonstrates mastery of technique and ingredient quality. Whether dining in the formal dining room, the more casual barroom, or hosting a private event, guests can expect flawless service and innovative cuisine prepared with extraordinary attention to detail.