Toshakur — Review by Mark Wiens
Kabul, Afghanistan — Afghan
Toshakur is a second-generation heritage restaurant in Kabul's Old City that has been serving exceptional kalapacha (head and feet) for 40-50 years. The dish features meticulously prepared offal including brain, tongue, cheek, and feet cooked in bone broth overnight, served with fresh warm bread and accompanied by traditional Afghan seasonings. Every component melts in the mouth and represents the resourcefulness and culinary skill of Afghan cuisine.
What was great: The kalapacha (head and feet) with incredibly tender, melting textures, rich bone broth, fresh fluffy bread that acts as a perfect sponge, skillful preparation of offal parts, creamy brain, the combination of all animal parts, and the heritage and history represented in the dish
What could improve: Nothing mentioned
The Dishes
Toshakur specializes in kalapacha, a traditional Afghan breakfast dish that translates to head and trotters. What arrives at the table is an impressive spread of different animal parts including cow and sheep head, tongue, brain, cheek meat, feet, and skin. Each component arrives in its own bowl with rich bone broth that has been simmering for over 12 hours on low heat. The pieces are hand-chopped into bite-sized portions and served with fresh, fluffy bread that has just come out of the oven.
The preparation begins with shura, which combines hand-torn bread soaked in broth poured from the feet and head, topped with brain, cow cheek, and tongue. When you squeeze the fluffy bread, it releases an incredible amount of rich broth and juices. The cow head is particularly memorable, with a thick layer of fat on top that completely saturates each piece of bread, creating an intensely meaty experience. The sheep head offers different textures including gelatinous and slightly chewy components that melt on the tongue. The brain is remarkably creamy, almost custard-like, liquefying in your mouth. The cow tongue is tender enough to require no chewing, while the lamb feet provide bouncy tendons and collagen-rich bites when paired with lime and fresh onions.
Traditional Afghan seasonings accompany the dish including dried coriander, black pepper, and dried grape seeds, allowing diners to customize each bite. Fresh green chilies and raw onions provide palate-cleansing contrast to the richness of the animal fats and broths.
The Experience
The restaurant is located in Kabul's Old City and maintains a heritage atmosphere befitting its 40-50 year history. The owner is a second-generation operator who takes pride in the traditional preparation methods. The service is warm and welcoming, with the owner greeting guests personally. The environment feels authentic and unpretentious, drawing both rich and poor, young and old locals who appreciate this communal food that brings people together.
Value & Pricing
Pricing was not explicitly mentioned in the review, though the experience appeared to be extremely generous with multiple bowls of different animal parts and fresh bread provided.
Notable Moments
Man, could sit here all day, lounge, and eat lamb. We're sitting by the river, surrounded by lush green trees, fresh fruit, and lamb so tasty you can't resist it.
The simplicity, the utilization of every part of the animal. And this is food that's enjoyed by everybody. Poor, rich, young, old. You know, it brings people together.
This kalapocha was absolutely incredible. Again, a heritage place that's been open for 40, 50 years.
The Verdict
Toshakur is an essential destination for anyone seeking authentic Afghan cuisine and willing to embrace traditional preparations of offal. The restaurant represents the resourcefulness and culinary heritage of Afghanistan, showcasing how skilled cooks can transform humble animal parts into incredibly delicious and tender dishes. The kalapacha at Toshakur is recommended for adventurous eaters interested in traditional Afghan breakfast culture and the historical significance of communal eating. This is not for the faint of heart, but for those willing to try it, the experience is unforgettable and deeply representative of Afghan culinary tradition.